Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Bravo! shoes, shirts, etc.)? I note your enthusiasm for W&S. possibly a slightly unusual choice Id like you to ask about, purely subjective of course: for a first bespoke commission, if your budget was a tad higher then W&S classic say 2000-3000 would you still choose them (and add an extra trouser to get to 2k+) or go with one of the cheaper Italian tailors, say Vergallo or Solito, (at around 2200 2500) or give a young / next generation Saville Row cutter a chance (e.g. But when in 1760 Read More. Do you mind me asking what make your glasses are? Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Also, is it usually preferable to have the person you first meet about a garment also do the pattern and fitting? All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. That makes more sense. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. B.) I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. I would take it back in and talk to the tailor about it. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Dear Simon, How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. I guess this is relevant to the greatest number of people in the context of a bespoke suit, and it would great to know what are the key points that should be thought about (choice of cloth etc.). Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. Yes I think so, it has a great feeling to it. Very happy with her. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. With this in mind, what difference (if any) would there be between a suit cut by a cutter who specialises in a particular house cut, and a cutter who deals with a wider range of styles? Thank you in advance. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? No it would look good without a tie. Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? Even in todays culture of instant gratification, a large majority of the worlds best-dressed men still go to the effort and expense of having their clothes custom-made. vergallo e.2200 for suit, e1750 for jacket Includes digital magazine access + a free gift. Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Hi Salvatore, Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Thats really interesting to hear. . And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? Apparel & clothing. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. However, how far does that extend to? Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. A.) Yes, shes been a cutter for about 10 years. That means someone has taken measurements of your body and then adjusted the clothes to fit those measurements. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. ), That means 3-4 visits for the first suit. The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Very best. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. By the way, Sian is the other cutter at Whitcomb now, and is very good in my experience. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. With a virtually unlimited choice of fabrics and style, there is no limitation except your imagination. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. Hi Lewis, Like the lap seam down the back of the jacket (an idea I shamelessly copied across from my Chittleborough & Morgan suit). Thanks for this. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. top of page. The only tailor Ive seen do that passably is Cifonelli and even then its not quite the same. Your green linen G&H suit is really close to what I like. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. which is better in your opinion? The brand is the brainchild of two brothers, Suresh and Mahesh Ramakrishnan, who both enjoyed long and successful corporate careers in New York City before they decided to open a tailor shop. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. Im thinking very seriously about commissioning a suit from W&S, using their Classic Bespoke service. It gets made for a lot of weddings. Thanks for advice. Includes access to the digital magazine. Thanks Simon. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. Vergallo would be a great starting point. Hi Calvin, There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Would you say W&S would be a sound option for someones first bespoke suit and if so, any advice on a maiden voyage such as this? Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. This article maybe one of the most significant you have written in terms of opening up bespoke suiting to a market that couldnt justify the 3k plus cost of a row suit, irrespective of relative value. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Whilst acknowledging that the intent of any bespoke tailoring is to enhance and flatter the wearer, I would be interested to read more about the tricks of the trade used to mitigate different physical challenges. I dont have the cloth number, but I can get it. Its when the cutter is never present that you really have to worry. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Thanks!! The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. So I would go to Sexton for their style, and to Whitcomb for theirs. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. I explicitly did not make any comments about the suit while it was cut, except answers to questions I was asked. I havent Im afraid apart from Luxire part of the problem is theres a lot of them so its hard to say anything comprehensive. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Simon quick question. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Thank you very much for your assistance. More insightful would be a personal perspective on how your relationship with bespoke has evolved with time/experience. On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Great article . Thank you for your help and the great website. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. I have checked them out however note that: Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Or take in some pictures of styles you like. ), Thanks for the recommendation of the neapolitan tailors. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Since you praise John McCabe for his cutting, I was wondering whether needs to be involved in the measurement process and therefore needs to be present during the first appointment? Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Is it possible to request a little bit less drape from W&S? It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. Q and a bespoke suit, e1750 for jacket Includes digital magazine access + a free gift fitting... Answers to questions i was asked as much Maison Bonnet, for example, process! 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